Monday, February 1, 2016

Mexico Day 1

We visited S's sister P the week between Christmas and New Year's. She lives smack dab in the middle of historic downtown Mexico City, so there is much to see within easy walking distance. On our first full day there, we went to the Museo de Arte Popular, then on to the humongous San Juan food market.

On the way to the museum, we passed a huge, high-ceilinged bakery, the Pastelería Ideal on Av. 16 De Septiembre. After tasking E with buying himself a pastry (get a tray and some tongs, place your selections on the tray, take the tray to the packing station, get an invoice, pay for the invoice, return the receipt to the packing station, and pick up your cream-filled donut), P sent us upstairs to see the cakes.
A 55 kg vision in pink
110 kg in blues and greens
The cake in the window that drew us in
We were greeted at the museum by this snake...
...with more papier mâché inside.
Coyote by Angelico Jimenez of Oaxaca
Judas effigies. Missionaries introduced the practice of burning them on the Saturday of Holy Week. The signage said the effigy burnings "helped capture the attention of the newly converted."

Clay flutes and ocarinas
"Purgatory mask" by Zenaida Rafael Julian of Michoacan
Mask detail; devil is getting ready to chow down. He reminds me of the Blue Meanies in The Yellow Submarine.
My photo-processing software wanted me to tag the faces in this image
Winged bearded bicycling skeleton
The clay pieces were stunningly dainty and detailed

This skull was in the gift shop
Life-sized revelers
More amazingly delicate clay work--"La Virgin de la Salud" by Manuel Leal Jacobo. There were signs everywhere saying "do not touch," but in case it wasn't obvious, the sign for this one added "extremely delicate piece."
En route to the market, P pointed out some culinary opportunities.

Offerings at an Aztec restaurant. When you live on man-made islands on a marshy lake, you eat whatever protein you can find.

This spice shop is next door to a mole grindery. You can buy your spice combos here and take them next door to have them mixed together into mole paste, or go home and grind everything yourself.
The San Juan market is jam-packed with stalls, selling every food imaginable.

Asian veggies
E' says "say cheese!"
P buying her favorite mole from her favorite mole maker
My chickens would be aghast
E was tuckered out from all the walking, so he hitched a ride home from E' and took a nap...

...while S, P, and I walked home via the post office.

P lives on the top floor of a 1940s apartment building. Her balcony is covered with happy tropical plants.

...and a skeleton
Dried flowers inside by the balcony door
For dinner we walked up the block to a ritzy restaurant with a very fancy bar.

Mezcal flasks hanging in front of the bar (not my cup of tea)

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