Tuesday, March 9, 2021

Hope Valley loop

One of the interesting things about walking a lot has been learning how one neighborhood connects to another--and learning that routes I've been driving for years aren't necessarily the most direct ways to reach a destination (even if they might be the speediest ones). In February, a friend commented that I should swing by on a walk sometime, but I had always thought of her house as much too far away to do that. Last Friday, after heading off for a short walk on the American Tobacco Trail, I googled her address and discovered her house was closer than I had thought--closer on foot than by any route I've ever driven there--so I decided that would be my destination for the day. When she texted that she wouldn't be home, I expanded my loop to include Hope Valley, a neighborhood I hadn't covered during car-free February because it had seemed too far away. Friend was home by the time I was looping back, so I got a quick visit in on top of my longest loop walk yet.

Ta da--14 miles!

Some highlights:

C.C. Spaulding Elementary School is named for Charles C. Spaulding, who was president of NC Mutual for almost three decades. 

The American Tobacco Trail passes above S. Roxboro. Usually I'm on the bridge instead of under it.

Look! A desire path! I'm learning that people really don't like walking through puddles.

The intersection in the photo below begins one of the most unpleasant stretches of road I've walked on. The photo looks back at the sidewalked portion of S. Roxboro Rd....

...and this next photo looks forward at the un-sidewalked part. The narrow desire path is uncomfortably close to the road, and further ahead, there's very little room for walkers to leap away from cars that zip past.

S. Roxboro eventually becomes Archdale Drive; the treacherous portion of the road ends at Durham Parks and Recreation's Operations Center with the welcome appearance of sidewalks. There's a park--Southern Boundaries Park--just east of the building, but I didn't stop to check it out. If I had, I would have learned that Third Fork Creek Trail has a terminus in the park--a walk for a future date. (Googling the trail informs me that the city has plans--or at least had, pre-pandemic--to join Third Fork Creek Trail to the American Tobacco Trail--very exciting!)

Hope Valley Road, a.k.a. Hwy 751, is another street that's not designed for pedestrians. Nor for bunny rabbits.

I've driven down Hope Valley Road many times over the past 20 years, but never explored this ritzy 1920s Durham subdivision. If you want to see some jaw-droppingly expansive mansion estates, Hope Valley is the place to look.

My cell phone camera isn't good at showing depth; this shot is looking downhill from the top of the Hope Valley golf course.

After some twists and turns, I emerged from Hope Valley neighborhood onto Old Chapel Hill Road. I think this next photo is an apt synecdoche for the streets I had just visited. A bit of background: I routinely encounter trash everywhere I walk, mostly consisting of fast food containers, squashed beer or energy-drink cans, and empty plastic liquor bottles. The first trash I saw on this road bordering Hope Valley was a La Croix hibiscus sparkling water can--neatly upright, of course, because lying sideways would have been untidy. 

The wooden sign for the Valley Run subdivision made me laugh for its wishful thinking. As far as I know, Durham is not a place where any sky-blue river runs past pine trees into the sea.

The Bird Boutique is "a Parrot Lover's Paradise," visible from a distance thanks to a 1.5-story decorative wooden parrot. 

Hope Valley Elementary. The other side of the sign says "Read a book with your child, Veterans Day Nov. 11." Here's looking forward to brighter post-pandemic days when kids are safely back in school buildings.

An old gate to Rockwood Park perhaps dates to the park's beginning in the 1950s. I couldn't see a way into the park from this gate without jumping over the side of a cliff. (Durham has cliffs? A very steep descent, anyway)...

...but further along the road, there's an entrance that descends down the cliff into the park.

Again, my camera isn't good at showing hills--but notice the difference in the heights of the treetops from where the photo was taken and where the evening sunlight is striking. 

Down in the park

From Rockwood Park, I walked to Forest Hills Park (where S met up with me on his bike) and then through Lyon Park...

Lyon Park mural

...past a labyrinth in front of the Pauli Murray Center for History and Social Justice...


...toward Duke East Campus...


...and home.

Desire paths

One of the things I'm becoming more attuned to on my urban hikes is the presence of desire paths--paths that walkers create when a sidewalk or trail, or lack thereof, fails to serve their needs or desires. In urban environments, desire paths may reflect poor planning or design. Often, desire paths are the most direct or convenient route from point A to point B.

It makes sense to find desire paths in places that lack planned paths--e.g. on city blocks lacking sidewalks. In Durham's sidewalkless residential neighborhoods, people generally walk in the street; when walking in streets is too dangerous, walkers pound out safer paths.

A straight and narrow desire path on busy N. Roxboro Road

Metaphor: the sidewalk turns to puddled desire path at A Lot of Cars

Broken sidewalks also motivate walkers to create new paths:

Path to avoid broken sidewalk on Forestview Street

Sometimes desire paths demand to be acknowledged. 

A business responded to this desire path with pavers

When no safe walking routes are available along city streets, I appreciate desire paths, with gratitude to all those the walkers who came before me and pounded them into place. In green spaces, though, desire paths can be problematic: sidestepping managed trails can result in undesirable erosion or trampled plants. 

It takes an impressively small amount of feeling inconvenienced by an existing sidewalk or trail for walkers to veer off it in favor of desire paths, as evidenced by Sandy Creek Park (a Durham city park) and the South Ellerbee Creek Trail (a 1.4-mile portion of the North/South Greenway). 

Sandy Creek Park is part of a wetlands restoration project that sits on 101.7 acres formerly used by the city for a wastewater treatment plant. The park attracts abundant birds and other wildlife, and human visitors can experience the park on a mix of paved and unpaved trails. I visited the park for the first time on a rainy day in early March, when parts of the paved trail were flooded. Judging from the desire paths, these sections of trail flood regularly:

Short puddle, short desire path

Long puddle, long desire path

No good alternative: puddle on trail, mud on sides...

...but folks tromp through the mud anyway

Even the unpaved park trails showed signs of desire paths:

A muddy patch of trail (center right)...

...impels a drier detour to be trampled into existence

The 1.4-mile long South Ellerbee Creek Trail* runs alongside Ellerbe Creek* between West Trinity Avenue and West Club Boulevard. The trail offers users a welcome respite from city traffic and noise, with easy access to the trail from any of six cross-streets. (*Yes, standard spellings of Ellerbe[e] give the trail name two Es on the end and the creek name just one.) 

Greenway entrance on W. Trinity


A desire path to access a view of the creek

Markham St. Not sure what motivates this one...

Double whammy on Green St: desire paths to left and right

Spray-painted orange arrow: is the city making this desire path official?

Cutting curves before the bridge


Cutting corners on Knox St.

Approaching Club Blvd: two desire paths before the intersection

Cut the stroll short here?...

...or here?

Spray-painted arrows (pointing against traffic)--part of a city plan?

While I was photographing this spot, a couple exited the greenway using the earlier of the two desire paths. I'm not sure what the equation is for balancing the joys of a stroll with avoiding unnecessary steps. Perhaps once cars--or the sidewalk--are visible, the greenway's appeal dissipates.





From the South Ellerbee Greenway, my route home took me along a stretch of greenway between Washington Street and Duke Park. I exited the path onto Glendale, noticing for the first time that there's a paved connection between the trail and the street. Actually, I'm aware of the paved connection when I head from Glendale onto the trail, but I don't usually notice it when I head from the trail onto Glendale. I've contributed many a muddy footstep to this desire path, occasionally wondering why the city never bothered to pave it!


The greenway-to-Glendale desire path is still evolving in the mud. In the battle between taking the desire path and taking the sidewalk just a few feet to its left, I'm sure the desire path will emerge victorious.

Where's the least muddy place to step (other than the nearby sidewalk)?


Thursday, March 4, 2021

Walking

I've been walking.

January and February are hard months for me. It took at least a decade for me to figure this out, because the data points only come around once a year, so it's hard to collect enough of them to recognize a pattern.

I have enough data now. A ball drops every New Year's Eve: my adjunct academic contracts are expectedly sparser, the urgency to make pots for holiday sales dissipates, my porch studio is too cold to work in, the weather is bleak, days are short, and nights are long. I should fill this time by upping my pottery production--or finally building an all-season studio. Instead, I only get the work done that absolutely must get done. I procrastinate. I surf. I waste a dreadful amount of time not doing much, feeling bad about it, and then doing the same thing over again the next day, for no apparent reason other than that this is what I always do in January and February.

So I've been walking.

An hour before sunset on January 21st, after avoiding work all day, I thought that perhaps going outside and putting one foot in front of the other for an hour might count as doing something, even if it wasn't making pots or prepping for the next day's writing workshop. Ten minutes later, I walked out the door and headed north on the greenway. Away from my computer, my brain finally focused on workshop plans, which I dictated into my cell phone. After a few miles of this, as the last of the sun's rays faded from the sky, I paused on the quiet wooded path to photograph the out-of-place yellow-orange glow of a nearby energy distribution substation. When I reached the north end of the greenway, I considered that I could walk all the way to Eno River State Park, but it would be too dark to hike once I got there. I turned left to loop back home. By the time I got back, I had walked eleven miles, six of them in the dark.

Really? I can't spend the night here? Duke Energy distribution substation butts up against tree-lined trail. 

The next day, I spent 3.5 hours on Zoom talking about science writing with postdocs in upstate New York. That afternoon, I walked another eleven miles. In theory, I had set off to buy bread at a bakery a few miles away, to give my walk a purpose. In practice, I came home breadless, because walking was purpose enough.

You can't see hand-painted NCSU garden gnomes from a car.

This is what I had been looking for; you can find it in unexpected places if you travel by foot.

On the third day, I made walking a personal goal. I made up some rules:

1. No travelling by car in February (exceptions allowed for medical appointments, emergencies, and moving my kid out of his dorm if the university shut down student housing again due to covid).

2. Walk a lot. (What's "a lot"? Walking places I'd usually drive? Every day? Most days? I'm still figuring it out.)

3. Walk to prepare to walk more. 

I've been talking for years about wanting to do a long-distance hike once the kid is comfortably ensconced in college. He's now thoroughly ensconced, and the trails aren't going to hike themselves. 

So I walked. I've long been a destination-focused walker (walk to work, walk to the store). For five and a half weeks, I became a walking-focused walker. I walked enough to feel like I was actually getting somewhere, despite ending up back at home every time. I learned a lot.

I drove three times in February:

(1) I had a doctor's appointment on February 2. I drove because it was allowed under Rule 1, and because walking 16 miles roundtrip seemed like more than I really had time for. The appointment ended with an unexpected biopsy, so after driving home, I spent most of the afternoon Googling all the things that could potentially be wrong with me, instead of working. That was still a better use of my time than walking eight miles home with a leaky wound.

(2) On February 26, S and I each drove one of our two cars out of the driveway and parked them on the street, so we could transfer a firewood delivery from the street to our woodpile.

(3) Also on February 26, after we moved the wood, I drove both cars back into the driveway. 

Everywhere else I went, I went on foot.

Before the no-driving rule kicked in, S dropped me off
at the southern end of the American Tobacco Trail,
and I walked the 24 miles home. 01.30.2021

I'm privileged to be able to spend this much time walking (as well as, I suppose, to spend two months submerged in seasonal depression, frittering entire days away between brief spurts of required productivity). For better (usually) or for worse (sometimes), I am mostly my own boss; my early-year work load is light; I no longer have a kid at home who needs daily attention; and (for better, definitely) I have a spouse who works full time and through whose job I receive healthcare benefits. I also recognize that I can walk through most neighborhoods in town without anyone judging whether or not I belong there--or at least without anyone acting on that judgment.

So I walked. The no-driving rule meant staying relatively close to home. My longest loop was just under 13 miles, which got me about 5 miles from home as the crow flies and included an almost 2-mile stretch through West Point on the Eno City Park.

January 21-February 28: 261 miles, 35 walks.
Shortest walk: 1 mile loop; longest walk 24 miles one-way.

Things I learned:

1. Walking is better than not walking.

The sidewalks bordering NCCU are stenciled with
walk-related encouragement. Eat smart.

Be active.

North of NCCU, words yield to symbols. Keep walking.

Downtown stencil. A friend and I donned masks
to walk and talk.

2. Walking shrinks distances. It might take longer to get somewhere on foot than by car, but the fact that I can get there on foot makes the destination seem closer. Walking changes the meaning of "within walking distance."

A short destination-focused walk quadrupled into
a walking-focused walk. 02.19.2021.

3. Walking is the best way to understand the twists, turns, meetings, partings, and rejoinings of roads and trails. I grew up in a part of the Midwest where streets are laid out in cardinal directions--where you can measure miles by counting crossroads and navigate by looking for grain silos poking up in the distance above the corn and soybeans. Decades later, roads that curve still throw me for a loop. Walking makes the curves make sense.
Curvy roads make it harder to tell what direction
I'm headed, but easier to draw pictures. 2.27.2021

4. Walking amplifies local history. From historical markers, to cemeteries, to local landmarks, to murals, to historic districts, to schools and parks and museums and even to Little Free Libraries, walking helps you see connections between people and places in ways that driving does not. 

Pauli Murray mural on Foster Street

Pauli Murray mural on Buchanan.

Pauli Murray mural at Carroll & Chapel Hill. 

The Pauli Murray Center for History and Social Justice,
906 Carroll Street.

The Durham Civil Rights Mural, located behind the
Durham Arts Council, is a local history lesson in pictures.

In Plain Sight, a temporary historical exhibit in
Geer Cemetery, runs through March 7. 

This little free library on Geer St. encourages
walkers to educate themselves. See the links
at the end of this post for more info. (1)

See links below (2)

See links below (3)

See links below (4)

Durham Hebrew Cemetery, adjacent to the southeast corner of Maple View Cemetery, dates back to the 1800s.

5. Walking teaches you where sidewalks are, where they aren't, and where they clearly should be, judging by the paths pedestrians have trampled into the dirt. Durham is a car-centric city in a car-centric state.

Where pedestrians have a will, pedestrians will
find a way. This path on N. Roxboro Road doesn't
offer much protection from speeding cars.

The closed part of this "sidewalk" is the part where
there's not actually any sidewalk. Fayetteville Road.

Fayetteville Road is better endowed with sidewalks
than many other busy streets, albeit with a few 
unfortunate gaps. Here's a miniscule stretch built
solely for cars to drive over.

This sidewalk continues on the other side of the grass-
covered pile of dirt (and probably under it too).

There are no sidewalks on this hill along the freeway,
which makes sense. I shouldn't have been walking
here. Do not try this at home.

6. When people see that you are walking a lot, they recommend books to read and movies watch about people who walk a lot. 

In these long-walk narratives--skimmed from the uppermost layers of the world's millennia-deep collection of wanderer tales--distance-walking is inevitably life-altering. Protagonists walk away from the familiar, the comfortable, the mundane, the dangerous, the horrific, the tragic. And they usually walk directly or meanderingly toward those same things too, in all possible pairings. Distance matters in these stories: an epic is not an epic if you only have to walk across the street to experience it. 

(I'm admittedly not an avid reader, but even I know multiple narratives about walking epic distances. I know a few narratives about walking very short distances--e.g. discovering love in the back yard or up the road. What I'm not aware of are stories about walking a sensible 3-4 miles a day.)

7. You don't need to get in a car to go for a walk in the woods in Durham: we have greenways, rivers, trails, and parks in places both expected and unexpected.

Boardwalk in Indian Trail Park.

Greenway behind Costco.

West Point on the Eno City Park.

8. You don't need to get in a car to see art in Durham: we have abundant visual, sculptural, architectural, and musical art in places both expected and unexpected.

Brontosaurus on the greenway near the Museum
of Life and Science. (But is it 
art? Walking and
philosophy go hand in hand too.)

Underpass art connecting Westover Park to Northpointe.

Mural in progress on Foster Street.

Duke Chapel. 

Out-of-commission satellite dishes at Duke Arts Annex

Signal box art near Costco.

Duke's Nasher Art Museum.

Durham County Library sculpture.

Minions having a Mardi Gras party on the greenway.

I AM DURHAM, Morris Green Park.

9. The Bull City likes its bovines.

West Club Blvd.

Leon Street apartments.

Downtown alley

Major the Bull, CCB Plaza.

Alley art.

DBAP.

Emerge Ortho.

Magic fairy bullerina (?) at Stadium & Duke.

================

*The little library on Geer Street is adorned with names and images referring Black Wall Street and other Black history in Durham. Links below provide a brief who's who:


2.
Hayti Heritage Center is on Fayetteville Road. https://hayti.org/ 
I-147 cut right through the Hayti neighborhood in the 1960s in the name of "urban renewal." https://www.bullcity150.org/uneven_ground/dismantling_hayti/ 

3. 
The image is based on the second photo here: http://www.opendurham.org/buildings/105-107-w-parrish-st

4. 
The top of the little library depicts Shakanah China, who was 13 when she was killed in a drive-by shooting in Durham.